1. rejsebrev fra 21/12 – 06, Marshal Øerne

Kaere Alle

Vi ankom til Majuro (hovedoeen blandt Marshaloerne) igen i dag torsdag den 21, for at hente reservedele. (Vi er 11 timer foran DK-tid.) Siden vi sidst staevnede ud fra Majuro for 10 dage siden har vi vaeret ude og opleve tropiske paradiser langt vaek fra vestlig civilisation. Vi sejlede den 11. Og den 13. dukkede der en ny oe op, som vi besluttede at tage ind og kigge naermere paa.

De foerste der blev sendt ud paa ekspedition var vi tre gaster: Torben (44), Mette (24) og undertegnede (32, hvis I skulle vaere i tvivl). Dejlig oe med kokospalmer og 5 beboere: et aeldre og et yngre aegtepar samt en dreng paa 2. Vi kom tilbage og aflagde rapport til skipper, Niels (65) og skippers kone, Lone (64). Og saa kunne det nok vaere at der kom fut i fejemoejet. En tilfaeldig bemaerkning fra Torbens side om at det var Lucia dag, fik Lone og jeg til at arrangere det helt store. Der er helt bestemt en ting Lone og jeg kan blive enige om, man skal ikke lade nogen som helst lejlighed til fest gaa forbi sig. Saa vi forberedte mad, fandt et hvidt lagen og klippede hul, fandt lommelygter og udnaevnte Mette til Lucia brud (hun tog det vist meget paent). Med alt udstyr klar tog hele besaetningen fra Celtic Avenger ind paa oen, for nu skulle vi have Lucia Fest. Jeg er helt overbevist om at det er foerst…og nok ogsaa sidste gang at beboerne opleve den smukke skandinaviske Lucia-tradition. Skoenhed er maaske ikke lige det foerste ord der falder en for, naar man skal beskrive denne Lucia procession bestaaende af tre kvinder i sommertoej og lommelygter, vandrende rundt om de hoefligt smilende beboere paa oeen, men mindevaerdigt tror jeg godt man kan kalde det. Hvis jeg selv skal sige det: stor stor succes!!

Naeste sejlads var haard for de tre gaster. Alle blev soesyge. Selv fandt jeg mig i den situation at maatte haenge ud over soegelaenderet og dele mit mave indhold med det store hav. Mette og Torben er ellers erfarne kapsejlere fra Aarhus, saa isaer Torben syntes han satte sin aere paa spil, ved at indroemme, at han vist var lidt skidt. Skipper og skippers kone opfoerte sig som om intet var haendt. Skippers kone bagte tilmed broed. Respekt! Den 15. ankom vi til oen Aorak. 100 beboere, hvoraf 50 er boern. Meget meget venlige og imoedekommende. Der er ingen el, rindende vand eller andre bekvemmeligheder – kun en enkelt radiomast, saa man kan tale med hinanden paa radioen…og ikke mindst lytte med paa, hvad resten af befolkningen i landet taler om. Fantastisk underholdning, naar man er paa en kokospalmeoe i Stillehavet. Inviterede den amerikanske laererinde ud paa mad. 23 aar og frivillig her et aar. Hun var godt nok kommet langt vaek hjemmefra. I de 4 maaneder hun havde vaeret der, havde hun ikke set andre udlaendinge. Hoevdingen paa oen var midlertidig bortrejst, idet han skulle have amputeret den ene fod paa hospitalet paa Majuro, men de ventede ham naar som helst og gik og gjorde rent paa oeen og forberedte til det store festmaaltid, de skulle have, naar han kom. Anden aften vi var der, gik vi paa jagt med laegen efter hummere. Her ville den medicinstuderende Mette nok foretraekke at jeg brugte et par “.

Paa hver oe har regeringen bestemt at der skal vaere en “laege”, som kan give plaster paa, tjekke om noget er braekket og give nogle smertestillende piller, inden han sender dem videre til hospitalet paa Majuro. Desvaerre fik vi ingen held med at fange hummere. Man kunne ane laegens forlegenhed, saa det endte med at vi brugte flere timer ude paa revet, hvorefter han forsoegte at fange kokoskrabber inde paa land, ogsaa uden held. Da vi endelig fik fortalt ham at det ikke gjorde noget, hvis vi ikke fangede noget, indvilgede han til sidst i at gaa hjem. Paa vej hjem fangede han et par smaafisk, som en lille kompensation for at vi havde givet ham ris og batterier. Stoerre fangstlykke havde vi ude paa Celtic Avenger. Torben, der til daglig er it-udviklingschef i et stoerre dansk teleselskab, tager en gang om aaret ud og lever “the wild life”. Dvs. klatrer paa et bjerg, koerer paa hundeslaede, dykker, hanglider osv. Torben: he man og jaeger. Det foerste bytte han havde udset sig tog det en uge at faa indfanget, men saa var hun der ogsaa, den soede Mette. Den naeste fangst han kunne bryste sig af var en nurse haj. Vi fik den op paa daek, skipper gav den en rom, skippers kone slog den ud med en hammer og Mette skar den op. Man kunne se hun havde haandelaget. Hun sagde ogsaa at det mindede hende lidt om naar de oevede sig i at skaere i arme og ben, preserveret i formaldehyd, paa medicinstudiet. Jeg fik rollen som kok. Da Lone og jeg er de eneste, der kan lide lever paa baaden, gav det anledning til endnu en fest. Lone og jeg klaedte os fint paa og havde “Babettes Gaestebud”, som Lone sagde.

Jeg tilberedrte en syv retters menu: hajlever tilberedt paa syv forskellige maader, og middagen tog timer. Vi sad og havde det kongeligt. De andre kunne vaere med paa hajboeffer og om aftenen tilberedte jeg en hajsuppe. Det med at jeg er skibskok paa Celtic Avenger er vist mere eller mindre vedtaget, da de oevrige gaster ikke har haft saa stor held ud i det kulinariske; braendt bacon og eksploderet fisk i mikroboelgeovnen, skaber ikke den samme stemning, som naar jeg fx serverer toerrede frugter i rom, flamberet og karameliseret i honning, serveret med den youghurt som skippers kone selv laver hver dag ud af maelkepulver. Se det er luksus paa Celtic Avenger. Da jeg lavede hajsuppe, spurgte Mette mig, hvordan jeg kunne lave det uden opskrift. Hun saa meget maerkelig ud i ansigtet, da jeg sagde: “Jeg lytter, jeg lytter til suppen, og saa kommer inspirationen, saa ved jeg lige hvad der skal i.” Hoe Hoe, saa fik hun noget at taenke over. Eller saa er det roeget helt ud igen, fordi det ikke rigtig passede paa en af hendes naturvidenskabelige hylder. Paa vej tilbage til Majuro var jeg ikke soesyg. Hurra hurra, det tegner jo lyst for min videre faerd paa havet. Foeler mig lidt som en soemand nu. I maa alle have en glaedelig jul og et godt nytaar.

Mange kaerlige hilsner Therese 2.

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