7. REJSEBREV FRA 11/2 – 07
Kaere Alle
Ankom den 9. til Yap, den vestligste stat af de fire stater i FSM (Federated States of Micronesia). Fra Pohnpei sejlede vi i fem dage til oen Puluwat. Var seks dage paa Puluwat. Herefter seks dage til soes foer ankomst Yap. Da vi forlod Pohnpei skulle vi igen “samarbejde” med immigrationsmyndighederne. Denne gang gik det dog bedre. De lod os kun vente to timer for at vi kunne faa vores stempler i passene, saa vi lovlydigt kunne forlade staten. Set i Pohnpei-perspektiv er to timers venten ingenting i forhold til de tre dage vi skulle vente da vi kom ind i landet.
Mette, Lone og jeg brugte noget af ventetiden til at inspicere et japansk skoleskib – et kaempemaessigt, topmoderne staalskib. Overstyrmand Akira viste os rundt. (Ikke at forveksle med den aarhusianske imam, Akari, der har den tvivlsomme aere at kunne indskrivne sig i danmarkshistorien som en af noeglepersonerne i Muhammedkrisen). Akira fortalte hvordan skibet tjente som baade soefartsskole for kommende styrmaend og uddannelsecenter for kommende hav- og marinebiologer. Skibet sejlede tre maaneder ad gangen, hvorefter det vendte hjem til Japan efter et nyt hold studerende, der skulle i praktik. Akira fortaeller om en gang de var ved Antarktis og boelgerne var 20 meter hoeje. Mange af de studerende er bange og sidder stille forsamlet i faellesstuerne, undtagen en fyr. Akira gaar ind til ham paa hans kammer. Den unge fyr er i gang med at laese sin yndlingsbog, for skulle han doe nu ville han altsaa doe lykkelig, midt i et rigtig godt kapitel. Og saa ler Akira saa latteren klukker fra hele hans krop. Og jeg ler med for historien kildrer min sans for det teatralske og tragikomiske. Efter fem dages sejllads fra Pohnpei ankrer vi op ved en lille atol, Puluwat, der hoerer til Chuuk.
Paa Puluwat bor der ca. 500 mennesker, der er ingen stroem eller rindende vand, men de ser ud til at klare sig fortrinligt uden. Der kommer et skib til oen hver, hver anden maaned. Man kan aldrig helt vide om det kommer denne eller naeste maaaned. Paa Puluwat bliver der bygget udriggerkanoer paa livet loes, og maendene tager ud at fiske fra dem. Maendenes paaklaedning er et klaede i en staerk farve bundet naermest som man ser sumubrydere i Japan. Den slanke linje er ikke noget man dyrker her. De fleste har store tykke maver, saa naar man ser dem sidde ned paa raekke i skraedderstilling ligner de en raekke store buddhaer. Her har de en tradition for navigation – ikke med kompas, gps eller andet fikkumdik. Nej nej her navigerer man efter stjernene, solen og boelgernes bevaegelser. Maendene paa Puluwat er kommet vidt omkring. Det laengste er nok de ca. 1000 km der er til Guam, en stor oe, nord for Puluwat. Den stoerste aere her er at blive navigatoer. Hvis man er god, kan man maaske opnaa det efter et helt livs traening. Efter et par dage ude paa det aabne hav med nu 75% kvinder om bord paa Celtic Avenger (Torben afmoenstrede som bekendt i Pohnpei) bliver paaklaedningen afslappet for at sige naesten ikke eksisterende. Sidder selv i staevnen i bar overkrop, med foedderne dinglende ud over skibssiden, med solskin til atributterne som en anden galionsfigur. Holder udkig og skraaler saa flyvefiskene flygter neden for mine foedder: “Nu gaar vaaren gennem Nyhavn.” Lone er i bad paa fordaekket og Mette sidder toploes ved roret. Skipper faar sig en lur under daek. Pludselig er han vaagnet, er paa vej op paa daek, kigger sig omkring og udbryder lidt soevndrukkent: “Uh, men I er jo alle sammen noegne”, hvorefter han gaar ned igen og falder i soevn paa sofaen. Et par timer efter vover han sig op paa daek igen for at faa frokost. Til alt held er kvinderne nu mere taekkelige. “Nu gaar vaaren gennem Nyhavn Fra Shanghai og til kahyt Nu har solen gule unger I hver skimlet regnvejrspyt. Alle havnens soede piger drikker foraarsguden til vi har oel i stride stroemme vi har sang og banjospil” Ankommen til Yap finder vi ud af at kodekset for anstaendig paaklaedning kan afstikke en del fra en vestlig norm. I Yap er det uhoeffeligt at vise bare laar, men tilladt at gaa rundt i byen med bare bryster. Synlige laar paafoerer oen uheld, bare bryster er der intet uheldigt ved. I maa hygge jer.
Kaerlige hilsner fra Therese
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