9. REJSEBREV FRA 1/3 – 07

Kaere Alle

Jeg haaber I klarer jer derhjemme med en nylig afsluttet snestorm, regn og snesjap og andre fortraedeligheder. Jeg vil med en slet skjult satanisk glaede blot kundgoere at her skinner solen, mindst 35 grader og en let brise, saa det er til at holde ud. Jeg er nu paa Palau, men lad os starte, hvor jeg slap jer sidst ved afsejlingen fra Yap. Fra Yap sejlede vi videre vest paa til en lille atol, Ngulu, som tilhoerer Yap-staten. Atollen bestaar af fire oer og er et tropisk paradis, som man ser det paa film med hvide sandstrande og palmer. En flok paa ca. 30 delfiner ledte os vejen ind i lagunen. Det var som om de ville vaere sikre paa at vi ikke stoedte paa grund paa et af de mange koralrev. Det var kun en af oerne som var beboet. Oen Ngulu. Her boede en hoevding med 10 undersaatter. Hoevdingen havde lige arvet denne atol, og han syntes det var en stor ulykke. Han havde levet og arbejdet de sidste 38 aar, siden han var 22, inde paa Yap og havde maattet efterlade kone og tre boern derinde fordi pligten kaldte. Man kan jo ikke lade hvem som helst vaere hoevding. Det skal man vaere foedt til, og det forpligter. Hoevdingens undersaatter talte Georges familie: George, kone, soen, to doetre, den ene datters to piger og tre gamle kvinder.

I gamle dage havde de vaeret ca. 100 paa oen, men nu boede de fleste inde paa Yap. Der kommer kun skib med varer til Ngulu hver 2. til 3. maaned , saa det er meget afsondret og et besoeg af fire danskere var mere end velkomment. Aldrig har jeg moedt saa gaestfrie mennesker. Hver dag vi var der, blev vi budt velkommen med blomsterkranse. Paa oen havde de fanget en kaempe skildpadde og da Mette og jeg maatte indroemme, at vi aldrig havde smagt skildpaddekoed, besluttede hoevdingen at den skulle slagtes den foelgende dag. De tre maend paa oen havde fanget skildpadden efter at den havde vaeret oppe paa deres strand for at laegge aeg. En skildpadde har en cyklus, hvor den hver sjette maaned i en periode med 10 dages interval kommer op og laegger ca. 100 aeg a fem gange. En skildpaddeslagtning kan kun foretages af hoevdingen, og den maa i princippet kun overvaages af maend. Derfor foregaar slagtningen normalt i Maendenes Hus (der hvor maendene traditionelt moedes og holder raad. Der er ogsaa et Kvindernes Hus, saa saadan er det meget koensopdelt.) Idet hele besaetningen paa Celtic Avenger selvsagt er kvinder, havde hoevdingen et lille problem, naar han nu gerne ville vise os denne slagtning, men han kaldte alle de andre hoevdinge rundt i Yap-staten fra sin radiostation, og de blev enige om at da vi var udlaendinge, saa vi kunne godt taale det. Slagtningen blev flyttet, for der kunne aabenbart ikke blive lavet om paa at Maendenes Hus kun er for maend. Hoevdingen havde en saerlig stav, nedarvet gennem generationer af hoevdinge, som han slog dyret bevidstloes med, inden han skar den op ved halsen og lod bloden flyde ned i et saerligt kar. Saa stak hoevdingen hele armen ind i skildpaddens bug og fiskede indvolde, tarme og dens aeg ud. Herefter blev skildpadden kogt hel i en jordovn. Efter en time til halvanden i ovnen blev den parteret og stykkerne blev givet til kvinderne, som lavede et maaltid vi alle samledes om: grillet skildpadde paa tallerkener af flettede palmeblade og med fingrene som “ta-toej”. Vi fik en hel masse skildpaddekoed med hjem til baaden, saa det var naturligt at menuen igen stod paa skildpadde, da hele oen kom til vores baad naeste dag. Jeg havde forberedt skildpaddekoed i fire forskellige marinader, altsaa fire forskellige smagsoplevelser, og det blev praesenteret som paa en bedre restaurant. (Man behoever jo ikke saette sit lys under en skaeppe 😉 Med som gave havde de nyfangne hummere og kokoskrabber – yderst delikat. Dejlig dag, hvor nogen af os kom i mere og mere loeftet stemning. Maendene fra Ngulu syntes at gaa efter devisen: Nu er der endelig noget alkohol, lad os drikke alt, hvad der bliver stillet paa bordet. Dette medfoerte at den unge soen, Fabian, ikke var saa genert mere. Og selv om hans engelske vokabularium var paa ekstremt basis-niveau, saa behoevede han ikke mange ord for at lade mig forstaa, at jeg vist havde faaet mig en fan der. Selv om man er teenager paa en naesten oede oe, saa har man det som alle andre teenagere, lidt alkohol og hormonerne flyver ud til hoejre og venstre, og der er saa meget der skal proeves. Georges kone, Maria, var knap nok blevet teenager, da hun fik sit foerste barn. George fortalte (efter indtagelse af en del vodka) om foerste gang han havde set Maria, da hun var 9 aar gammel, og med det samme var blevet forelsket i hende. Da hun blev gravid med sit foerste barn som 11-aarig blev de gift. Her sad den nu 34-aarige Maria ved siden af mig og smilede til sin mand. Mor til seks, den yngste var 12, og mormor som 26-aarig. Jeg har kun et at sige: Therese, efter lokale forhold er du langt langt bagud! I hoerer helt sikkert mere senere. Maa loebe. Skal til fest med nogle Palauianere. Kaerlige hilsner fra Therese

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