Den 16 januar begyndte vi turen mod Cocosøen

Vi havde alle hørt om den fra bogen Skatteøen og var selvfølgelig meget spændte på at komme dertil. At besøge Skatteøen var opfyldelsen af enhver drengedrøm. Alle af besætningsmedlemmerne havde selvfølgelig hver deres forestillinger om at finde den begravede skat. Sejlturen til øen blev ikke helt så eventyragtig, da vi måtte sejle med motor hele vejen. Vinden var direkte imod og under 10 knob, så vores ellers så gode og solide skib udviste ikke de bedste sejlegenskaber på denne tur. Turen med motor tog 5 dage, hvor vi alle diskuterede, hvordan vi skulle gribe skattejagtssøgningen an. Selvom vi ikke fandt nogen skat, svarede øen helt og fuldt til vores forventninger. Alene at være så langt væk fra civilisationen var fascinerende. Øen var kun beboet af mindre end 20 rangere, der holdt opsyn med turisterne. Da vi ankom blev vi modtaget af to af rangerne, der fik afkrævet os 185 $ pr døgn for båd og 6 personer. Lidt af det eventyragtige blegnede. Vi smed resterne af en nyfanget tun i vandet, hvilket tiltrak et utal af revhajer (ikke så store) og koralfisk. Det fik vi hele eftermiddagen til at gå med. Simon, Sune og Henning var ude på en snorkeltur og så et vrag på ca. 7 meters vand. Vi var på et par ture ind i land, hvor en af rangerne var med som guide.

De var blevet træt af turister, der forsvandt i regnskoven, så de forlangte, at der skulle en guide med. Til gengæld var det gratis. Guiden fortalte om øens dyreliv, og trakterede os med kokosnødder som han fik hentet ned fra kokospalmerne. Øen var dækket af en flot jungle, men vi undrede os over, at der ikke var flere vilde dyr. Det vi så mest af var vilde grise. Efter at have leget skattejægere et par dage fortsatte vi turen mod Galapagos. Turen til Galapagos tog 5 dage. Igen var vejrguderne imod os, vi havde stadig en meget svag vind lige imod os, så hele turen blev igen med motor.

Det er betryggende at have en stærk og solid båd, men ind imellem lidt besværligt. På sejlturen passerede vi ækvator. Det var kun skipper der før havde sejlet over ækvator. Vi havde alle passeret ækvator før, men ikke sejlende. Det blev ikke til det helt vilde orgie, som man hører fra andre både, men vi hyggede os med ækvatorkage som Simon og Sune havde bagt, og vi fotograferede vores VHF da den skiftede fra 0 grader nordlig til 0 grader sydlig bredde. Et par af besætningsmedlemmerne blev døbt på behørig vis. D. 29/01 dukkede Galapagos endelig frem af disen. Alle var spændte på at se øerne, for nogle af besætningsmedlemmerne var det rejsens endelige mål. Vi blev på Galapagos i alt omkring to uger. Vi fik ændret lidt på sammensætningen af besætningen, idet Henning og Gitte afmønstrede og en ny gast Sofie på 25 år påmønstrede. Vi nåede at besøge 3 af øerne: San Christobal, hvor vi lå for anker ud for Puerto Baquerizo Moreno fra 29/01 – 7/02, Santa Cruz , hvor vi ankrede ud for Port Ayora, hvor vi var indtil 13/02 og endelig Isla Isabelle hvorfra vi sejlede d. 16/02. Det der betog os mest på Galapagos var som forventet det helt specielle dyreliv, der var på øerne.

Da vi kom sejlende dertil, blev vi budt velkommen af søløver. De virkede meget tamme og fredelige, det sidste fik vi senere fortalt, var ikke altid tilfældet, da hannerne ofte kunne være særdeles aggressive. Vi havde altid udsyn til søløver. Enten svømmede de omkring båden, eller de lå og sov på vores dinghy eller på stranden eller de legede med os, når vi svømmede. Det var hyggeligt altid at være omgivet af dem, og det er en af de ting vi savner nu, hvor vi har forladt øerne. Alle de ubeboede områder på øerne var udlagt som naturpark. Mange af stederne var det ikke lovligt at bevæge sig uden guide. Øerne var meget varieret i deres vegetation, lige fra tropeskov, til halvørken, hvor der voksede mandshøje kaktus. På Isla Isabelle havde der havde været vulkanudbrud for et par måneder siden. Vi var på en guidet tur til området. Det var fuldstændig udbrændt og øde og flere steder røg det stadig fra lavaen. Det var det mest ejendommelige landskab vi nogensinde havde set, og vi var alle lidt stille efter turen. Galapagos er et paradis for dykkere og snorklere, men desværre var det ikke tilladt at foretage sig nogen af delene uden guide, hvilket absolut ikke var gratis.

Flere af os var på en guided dykke- og snorkeltur til Kickerrock, en meget pittoresk dobbeltklippe, der er afbildet på alle turistbrochurerne fra Galapagos. Stedet som alle bør besøge. Foruden selve klippen der virkelig var meget fascinerende og som havde et meget rigt og varieret fugleliv, så vi også skildpadder, rokker og revhajer i vandet. De sidstnævnte var på trods af størrelsen op til 2 meter helt ufarlige, men fik alligevel snorklerne til at trække benene op under sig. På trods af, at vi næsten befandt os på ækvator var vandet koldt. Det var helt rigtigt hvad der stod i geografibøgerne om at den kolde havstrøm Humboldtstrømmen nedkølede havet. I det hele taget var Galapagos en lille zoologisk have, hvor dyrene var meget tamme. På nogle af de guidede ture vi var på, så vi selvfølgelig de så berømte Galapagos skildpadder. De virkede som om de var utrolig trætte og havde opgivet at få mere fornøjelse ud af dette liv.

En af de ting der stadig er printet på nethinden er leguanerne. De var overalt, både hav- og landleguaner, men mest havleguaner. De virkede ret ligeglade med vores eksistens, og betragtede os aristokratisk mens de nærmest hvilede i sig selv. De virkede nærmest som om de kom fra en anden tidsalder. Da vores sejltur fra Galapagos skulle gå til Maequesas øerne, en sejltur på en lille måned, hvor der ikke var nogen mulighed for at komme i land, brugte vi en del af tiden til at planlægge, hvad vi skulle have med af proviant, og få det købt. Det er længe at skulle være uden kontakt med omverdenen.

Vi blev klare over, at det havde været bedre at købe ind i Panama, da det både ar langt billigere og udvalget større. Vi fik købt en sæk kartofler, en sæk løg, en sæk ris og en sæk mel. Det sidste var ikke uden problemer, da den skulle opbevares tørt og køligt. Vi fik købt nogle store plasticdunke til at opbevare melet i. Vi havde utrolig besvær med ar finde gær, men det lykkedes til slut. Desuden fik vi købt ca. 90 liter langtidsholdbar mælk og havregryn, og dåsemad. Der var så meget dåse mad, at det væltede ud hver gang vi åbnede et skab. Vi var på et frugtmarked, hvor vi købte den sædvanlige klase bananer, vandmeloner og andet frugt, som vi håbede kunne holde sig i hvert fald et par dage. Der var ingen af os der havde den helt store erfaring med at købe mad til så lang tid, og uden at have de bedste kølefaciliteter. D.16/02 vinkede vi farvel til den sidste søløve på Galapagos, og begyndte på den næsten 3000 sømil lange rejse over Stillehavet, hvor vi i næsten en måned ville være uden nogen kontakt med omverdenen, og uden at se land. Vi var alle lidt beklemte spændte på, hvordan det ville gå, med at være så tæt sammen i så lang tid, uden nogen mulighed for at komme af.

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