REJSEBREV FRA 5/1 -07

Kaere Alle

Saa er jeg naaet frem til et sted, hvor internet er tilgaengeligt. Sidder paa Kosrae National Telecommunication Center. Haaber I havde en dejlig jul og et godt nytaar. Begge hoejtider tilbragte jeg til soes, saa jeg regner med at Dronning Margrethe betaenkte mig i sin nytaarstale: “…en hilsen til soens folk..” Celtic Avenger tog fra Majuro den 23. december. Med lidt held kunne vi naa frem til Jaluit atol (Marshall-oerne) den 24., og fejre jul der, men blev forsinket en dag, fordi der ikke var nogen vind.

Den 24. om aftenen var der til gengaeld meget vind, saa julemiddagen bestod af det forhaandenvaerende, der ikke kunne blaese vaek: en daase tun, en selleri og et aeble pr mand. Juleaften: Skippers kone raaber irriteret nede fra kabyssen (koekkenet) til Skipper om han da for fanden ikke kan sejle en ordentlig kurs. Hendes boller er ved at blive ryge ud af ovnen, fordi vi kraenger saa meget. Han kommer ned: ” Jamen kaere, vi skal jo sydover. Det ved hun selvfoelgelig godt, men de aftaler alligevel, at vi kan vaere ude af kurs den naeste halve time, saa bollerne kan bage faerdig, uden at blive klasket op af ovnlugen. Julenat sidder jeg alene paa vagt. Kigger paa stjerner. Orion lysende klar paa bagbords side (venstre) og nymaanen til styrbord. Himlen stor og maegtig. Det samme kan man sige om havet, og jeg istemmer “Dejlig er Jorden”. Lidt efter svarer himlen med trompet og traekbasun. Og sammen giver vi den hele armen. Synger og trutter, saa det gjalder ud i Julenatten.

Tidlig Julemorgen har vi held med fiskeriet. Jeg varskoer resten af baaden. Herefter en sej kamp mand og fisk imellem paa naesten en time. Det er en kaempe tun paa 70-80 kg, og “the he man”, Torben, faar bragt den ombord. Sikken en julegave! Resten af dagen spiser vi tun paa alle taenkelige maader: raamarineret, stegt, sushi… Skippers kone og jeg faar et praegtigt morgenmaaltid bestaaende af stegt lever, og da det er en han, de to kirtler med maelk. (For de langsomme er der her tale om tunnosser). Maelken er laekker cremet, og toerrrede aebler giver en god syrlig kontrast. Kaster lidt tun ud over haekken (bagenden af baaden) og mumler en boen paa sanskrit (oldindisk). I tilfaelde af at havet ikke forstaar sanskrit, siger jeg ogsaa lige: “Tusind tak for julegaven.” Kigger paa de store rullende boelger bag baaden, og det er som hun siger: “Ingen aarsag.” Den 25. naar vi frem til Jaluit og forberedelserne til en forskudt juleaften forstaar. Vi har to aender. Skippers kone steger den ene i ovnen, mens jeg skal stege en paa den lille gasgrill. Anden kan naesten ikke vaere der, og der gaar ikke mange minutter foer end fedtet fra den antaender hele herligheden.Faar kvalt ilden, men fuglen er blevet helt sort og forkullet paa den ene side. Skipper, som ellers tager sig en lur er straks oven daek. Han og baad har et symbiotisk forhold. Som en mor med sin nyfoedte baby, vaagener han ved enhver uregelmaessighed, der kunne true baaden. Proever at beherske mig, men er i “det roede felt”. Kan man vaere andet, naar man lige har braendt juleanden af? Heldigvis er Skipper vandt til at omgaas en temperamentsfuld kvinde, saa han ved lige, hvad man skal sige naar kogekunsten gaar ad haekkenfelt til. I faellesskab besigtiger vi den forkullede underside, mens han bliver ved med at sige: “Naah, jamen det er da ikke saa galt.”

Skippers kone har laest i en kogebog fra Caribien, at kokken skal huske at tage sig en rom. Vi lader for et oejeblik julemiddag vaere julemiddag, tager en drink og kigger lidt paa palmerne og det azurblaa vand. Moede med lokalbefolkningen paa Jaluit: Torben, Mette og jeg er igen fortrop og tager ind paa oen, vi ligger ved. Jeg kommer i snak med en mand midt i 30’erne, der viser sig at vaere oens skolelaerer. Han er skolelaerer 1. okt. til 1. april, mens han gaar paa college de andre seks maaneder af aaret. Boernene gaar altsaa kun i skole halvdelen af aaret. Jeg er ikke kommet saerligt langt i mine amatoer-antropologiske spoergsmaal, foerend han spoerger: “Do you have a boyfriend?” Jeg smiler og taenker: Toev lige en kende, makker. Hvis du boed paa en veltempereret Chianti, satte en af Beethovens strygekvartetter paa rejsegrammofonen og trak et flosset eksemplar af Hemmingways “Den gamle mand og havet” ud af reolen, og spurgte til min mening om den, saa kunne jeg maaske overveje et naermere bekendtskab. Du kunne vaere Denys og jeg din Karen Blixen, mens vi taetomslyngede dansede foran din palmebladshytte i solnedgangens skaer. Men saadan forholder det sig ikke. Skolelaeren foerer mig dog om bag sin hytte for at vise mig oens eneste limetrae – hans limetrae. Han tager en pind og rager saa mange lime ned, som jeg kan baere i min nederdel. I et sideblik strejfer han de bare knae, der er kommet til syne efter at jeg har samlet limefrugterne. Skynder mig at finde Torben og Mette, der er ved at slaa en god handel af med en af de lokale: en meterhoej klase bananer for en pakke cigaretter.

Mange kaerlige hilsner Therese

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